DAVID CHANG BRINGS MOMOFUKU TO THE COSMOPOLITAN
By Vegas Food Nerd
The Cosmopolitan is widely known for its cool vibe and modern feel, but for most, it is known for its food offerings.
Celebrity chefs, José Andrés and Scott Conant, have outposts of their wildly successful restaurants, Jaleo, and Scarpetta there. And now the renegade chef, David Chang, will be bringing his Momofuku restaurant, along with Christina Tosi’s Milk Bar to the resort.
David Chang has a standing column in GQ magazine, and in the last year or so, he happened to write a lot about Las Vegas. His frequent visits had me guessing that he might be thinking of jumping into the city, along with the throngs of other high profile chefs that have made our town a new culinary destination.
Chang, in the culinary world, has created a mad genius type of persona, famously banning all social photos of food inside the restaurant when it first opened in NYC. He has since rescinded this ban, but the ban itself created an almost mythic vibe to the restaurant, causing swarms of New York diners to wonder: ‘Just what was this guy cooking up in there?’
Christina Tosi’s Milk Bar supplies all of the desserts at Momofuku, and her “Crack Pie” and “Cereal Milk Ice Cream” have been written about countless times in assorted magazines and food blogs. Chang helped to elevate Korean cuisine in such a way that it appealed to hip foodies. The noodles and signature dishes he serves have gained praise from icons like Anthony Bourdain. His Sam sauce (a Korean chili sauce) sells online to other chefs, and home cooks, alike.
There is just one small problem with Chef Chang setting up shop here in our fair city. He famously coined the term “normcore” food in one of his columns in GQ about Las Vegas, calling the food in our city “monotone” and nothing special. He theorizes that the drones of tourists who flock here are just in full-on party mode and so happy that they don’t notice how basic the gruel is that they are shoveling in.
Them’s fighting words, Mr. Chang. It’s no secret that New Yorkers cling to their dining scene with a fierce and cocky pride. So it’s not really a surprise that his attitude towards the Las Vegas dining scene is less than stellar. But now that his restaurant is hitting our town, all we can say is, “Bring it on, son—and it better be good.” Momofuku is slated to open later this year at The Cosmopolitan.